Time: 2-4 weeks depending upon the size.

Skill Level: Intermediate

Size: Finished Bust Size 20 (21.5, 24, 26, 28)” to fit bust 18 (19, 21, 23, 25)”

2-3” positive ease recommended.

Shown in size 24”

Gauge: 22 sts and 24 rows = 4” [10 cm] in St st and 22 sts and 44 rows = 4” [10 cm] in star stitch pattern.

Materials

Knit Picks Brava Sport (100% premium acrylic, 274 yards [250 meters], 7oz [100 grams]):

Multi sample: 28389 Lady Slipper (A, 1 (1, 1, 1, 2) skeins), 28375 Cornflower (B, 1 skein), 28398 Seashell (C, 1 skein).

Yellow sample: 28379 Custard (A, 1 (1, 1, 1, 2) skeins), 28369 Canary (B, 1 skein), 28379 Caution (C, 1 skein)

Needles: US size 3 (3.0 mm) 18” circular needle for bodice, 24” for smaller 3 sizes and 32” for larger 2 sizes for skirts, 40” if using magic loop and a set of size 3 double pointed needles or size needed to obtain gauge.

Notions: Markers, tapestry needle, waste yarn or 3 stitch holders.

Special Stitches

3-Color Star Stitch Pattern in the Round (multiple of 3 sts)

Rnd 1: With A, *k3, pass first knit st over 2nd and 3rd knit sts, rep from * to end.

Rnd 2: With B, *k2, pick up and knit strand bet the two clusters, rep from * to end.

Rnd 3: With B, k1, *k3, pass first knit st over 2nd and 3rd knit sts, rep from * to last 2 sts, k2, slip first st from rnd to RH needle and pass first st in the group over the next 2 sts, slip  first st of the rnd (the one that was borrowed) back to the needle it came from.

NOTE: When working on dpn needles, each needle will end with 2 sts, requiring the knitter to “borrow” a st from the next needle to complete the cluster. To keep the sts on their original distribution, slip that borrowed st back onto the new needle then carry on with the K3, pass first st over sequence.

Rnd 4: With C, k1, *pick up and knit strand bet the two clusters, k2, rep from * to last st, pick up and knit strand bet the last cluster and last st, k1.

Rnd 5: With C, rep Rnd 1.

Rnd 6: With A, rep Rnd 2.

Rnd 7: With A, rep Rnd 3.

Rnd 8: With B, rep Rnd 4.

Rnd 9: With B, rep Rnd 1.

Rnd 10: With C, rep Rnd 2.

Rnd 11: With C, rep Rnd 3.

Rnd 12: With A, rep Rnd 4.

Rep Rnds 1-12 for pattern.

Pattern Notes

To shorten tunic, decrease the number of rounds in sets of 6 rounds.

To lengthen tunic, increase the number of rounds in sets of 6 rounds.

Add pizazz to the bodice by using B or C for the neck and armhole trim.

Pattern

First Tier

With A and longer circular needle, CO 162 (180, 198, 216, 234) sts, pm and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist the sts.

[K 1 rnd, p 1 rnd] twice, k 1 rnd.

Rnd 1: With A, work Rnd 1 of 3-color start stitch pattern. (54 (60, 66, 72, 78) clusters)

Cont in 3-color star stitch pattern for 22 (28, 34, 34, 34) more rnds, ending with C.

Size 21.5” Only

Dec Rnd: With A, *k2, do not pick up st bet clusters, k2, pick up st bet clusters, rep from * to end. (150 sts)

Sizes 20 (24, 26, 28)” Only

Dec Rnd: With A, k1, pick up st bet clusters, *k2, do not pick up st bet clusters, k2, pick up st bet clusters, rep from * to last st, k1. (135 (165, 180, 195) sts)

All Sizes

With A, p 1 rnd.

Second Tier

With C, k 1 rnd.

Rnd 1: With C, work Rnd 1 of 3-color start stitch pattern. (45 (50, 55, 60, 65) clusters)

Cont in 3-color star stitch pattern for 20 (26, 32, 32, 32) more rnds, ending with B but work color sequence as follows:

Rnd 1 in C, Rnds 2-3 in B, Rnds 4-5 in A, Rnds 6-7 in C, Rnds 8-9 in B, Rnds 10-11 in A, Rnd 12 in C. Rep Rnds 1-12 for pattern.

Size 21.5” Only

Dec Rnd: With A, k1, do not pick up st bet clusters, *k2, do not pick up st bet clusters, [k2, pick up st bet clusters, k2, do not pick up st bet clusters] twice, rep from * to last st, k1. (120 sts)

Sizes 20 (24, 26, 28)” Only

Dec Rnd: With A,*k2, do not pick up st bet clusters, [k2, pick up st bet clusters, k2, do not pick up st bet clusters] twice, rep from * to end. (108 (132, 144, 156) sts)

All Sizes

With A, p 1 rnd.

Third Tier

With B, k 1 rnd.

Rnd 1: With B, work Rnd 9 of 3-color star stitch pattern. (36 (40, 44, 48, 52) clusters)

Cont in 3-color star stitch pattern for 21 (27, 27, 33, 33) more rnds, ending with A.

With A, p 1 rnd.

Bodice

Cont with A only.

Work in St st until piece measures 8 (9, 10.25, 10.75, 11.25)”.

Separate front and back

K24 (27, 30, 32, 35) sts, BO 6 (6, 6, 8, 8) sts, k48 (54, 60, 64, 70) sts and place these sts on a holder for the front, BO 6 (6, 6, 8, 8) sts, k to end of rnd, cut yarn and slip these sts just k to the RH needle. (48 (54, 60, 64, 70) sts)

Back

Shape armholes

With RS facing, BO 2 (2, 2, 3, 4) sts at the beg of the next 2 rows. (44 (50, 56, 58, 62) sts)

Work the following Dec Row on each RS row 4 (5, 6, 6, 7) times, then every 4 rows 2 times. (32 (36, 40, 42, 44) sts)

Dec Row (RS): K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (2 sts decreased)

Work even until armhole measures 5.25 (5.5, 5.75, 6.5, 7.25)”, ending with a WS row.

Shape Back Neck

Next row (RS): K9 for right back and place them on a holder, BO center 14 (18, 22, 24, 26) sts, k9 to end.

Left Shoulder

Row 1 (WS): P across.

Row 2 (RS): K1, ssk, k to end. (8 sts)

Rep last 2 rows 2 more times. (6 sts)

Work 1 WS row.

Place sts on a holder. Cut yarn, leaving an 8” tail.

Right Shoulder

Place the 9 held right back sts back on needles.

Row 1 (WS): P across.

Row 2 (RS): K to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (8 sts)

Rep last 2 rows 2 more times. (6 sts)

Work 1 RS row.

Place sts on a holder. Cut yarn, leaving an 8” tail.

Front

Place the 48 (54, 60, 64, 70) held front sts back on needles.

Shape armholes as for Back. (32 (36, 40, 42, 44) sts)

Work even until armhole measures 3.25 (3.5, 3.75, 4, 4.75)”, ending with a WS row.

Shape Front Neck

Next Row (RS): K12 (13, 14, 14, 14) for right front and place them on a holder, BO center 8 (10, 12, 14, 16) sts, k12 (13, 14, 14, 14) to end.

Left Shoulder

Row 1 and all WS rows: P across.

Row 2 (RS): BO 3 sts, k to end. (9 (10, 11, 11, 11) sts)

Row 4: BO 2 sts, k to end. (7 (8, 9, 9, 9) sts)

Next RS Rows: K1, ssk, k to end 1 (2, 3, 3, 3) times. (6 sts)

Work even until length matches back. Place sts on a holder.

Right Shoulder

Place the 12 (13, 14, 14, 14) held right front sts back on needles.

Row 1 (WS): BO 3 sts, p to end. (9 (10, 11, 11, 11) sts)

Row 2 and all RS rows: K across.

Row 3: BO 2 sts, p to end. (7 (8, 9, 9, 9) sts)

Next WS Rows: P1, p2tog, p to end 1 (2, 3, 3, 3) times. (6 sts)

Work even until length matches back. Place sts on a holder.

Finishing

Seam Shoulders

Turn garment inside out. With WS facing, place shoulder sts for front and back of same shoulder each on a dpn. Using the tail from the back shoulder work a three needle BO as follows:

K first st from front tog with first st from back, *k next front and back st tog, BO 1 st by passing first st over 2^nd st, rep from * across until all sts are bound off.

Neckline Edging

Turn garment right side out.

With A and RS facing, beg at center back, pick up and k64 (67, 75, 79, 85) sts around neckline.

[P 1 rnd, k 1 rnd] 3 times. BO kwise.

Armhole Edging

With A and RS facing, beg at bottom of armhole, pick up and k70 (74, 76, 78, 80) around armhole.

[P 1 rnd, k 1 rnd] 3 times. BO kwise. Rep for 2nd armhole.

Weave in ends and block.

The post Cassady Tunic appeared first on I Like Knitting.

Time: Weekend Project

Skill Level: Easy

Size: 6 months (12 months, 2T, 3T, 4T, 6, 8, 10)

Finished Chest Size 20 (22, 24, 25, 27, 28, 29, 30)”

Shown in size 3T.

Gauge: 8 sts and 12 rows = 4” [10 cm] in St st after wet blocking

Materials

Yarn: Lion Brand Go for Faux (100% polyester; 65 yards [60 meters]/100 grams): 098 Baked Alaska (2 (3, 4, 4, 5, 6, 7, 9) balls)

Needles: US size 13 (9.0 mm) 24” circular needles and DPNs

Notions: Markers, stitch holders or waste yarn, tapestry needle, large hook and eye, needle and thread to match yarn

Abbreviations

P2togtbl: Purl 2 sts together through their back loops. (1 st decreased)

M1: Make 1 st by placing a firm backwards loop on the right needle.

M1R: Make 1 right leaning st.

M1L: Make 1 left leaning st.

Pattern Notes

This pattern is worked flat from the bottom up. Sleeves are picked up around the armhole edges for top-down sleeves. The hood is worked from the neck to the front edge. Ears are worked separately and sewn to the hood.

This yarn is unique in that it does not curl at the edges, so it needs no special edge treatments. If you are substituting a different yarn, consider working the first inch of the body in garter stitch, then work the first and last 3 sts of the body in garter stitch. Finish the sleeves with 2” of garter stitch as well.

Pattern

Body

Using circular needle, CO 40 (44, 48, 50, 54, 56, 58, 62) sts. Beg with a WS (purl) row, work in St st until piece measures 8 (9, 9.5, 10.5, 11, 11.5, 12, 12.5)” from CO edge, or to desired length to underarm, ending after a WS row.

Separate back and fronts:

With RS facing, k10 (11, 12, 12, 13, 13, 14, 15), turn. Place next 20 (22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 30, 32) sts on holder or waste yarn for Back, and place last 10 (11, 12, 12, 13, 13, 14, 15) sts on separate holder or waste yarn for Left Front.

Right Front

Work even for 2 (2.5, 3, 3.5, 3.75, 4, 4, 4.25)”, ending after a WS row.

Row 1 (RS): BO 2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3), k to end. (8 (9, 9, 9, 10, 10, 11, 12) sts rem)

Row 2: P to last 2 sts, p2togtbl. (7 (8, 8, 8, 9, 9, 10, 11) sts rem)

Row 3: K1, ssk, k to end. (6 (7, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10) sts rem)

Row 4: P.

Row 5: K1, ssk, k to end. (5 (6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 9) sts rem)

Row 6: BO 2 (3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4), p to end. (3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5) sts rem)

Row 7: K.

BO rem sts. Break yarn and pull though last st.

Back

Place held Back sts onto needle and join yarn to work a RS row. (20 (22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32) sts)

Work even for 5.5”, ending after a WS row.

BO 2 (3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) sts at beg of next 2 rows, then 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5) sts at beg of next 2 rows. Place rem 10 (10, 12, 14, 14, 14, 14, 14) sts on holder for back of neck.

Left Front

Place held Left Front sts back onto needle and join yarn to work a RS row. (10 (11, 12, 12, 13, 13, 14, 15) sts)

Work even for 2.5 (3, 3.5, 3.75, 4, 4, 4.25)”, ending after a WS row.

Row 1 (RS): BO 2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3), p to end. (8 (9, 9, 9, 10, 10, 11, 12) sts rem)

Row 2: K to last 2 sts, k2tog. (7 (8, 8, 8, 9, 9, 10, 11) sts rem)

Row 3: P1, p2togtbl, p to end. (6 (7, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10) sts rem)

Row 4: K.

Row 5: P1, p2togtbl, p to end. (5 (6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 9) sts rem)

Row 6: BO 2 (3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4), k to end. (3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5) sts rem)

Row 7: P.

BO rem sts. Break yarn and pull through last st.

Sew shoulder seams.

Hood

With RS facing, beg at right front edge, pick up 8 (8, 8, 8, 8, 9, 9, 9) sts up to held back neck sts, place held back sts onto left needle and k across, pick up 8 (8, 8, 8, 8, 9, 9, 9) sts down to left front edge. (26 (26, 28, 30, 30, 32, 32, 32) sts)

Set-up Row (WS): P13 (13, 14, 15, 15, 16, 16, 16), pm, p to end.

Inc Row: K to 1 st before next m, M1R, k1, sl m, k1, M1L, k to end. (2 sts increased)

Work 3 (3, 3, 3, 1, 1, 1, 1) rows even.

Rep Inc Row. (30 (30, 32, 34, 34, 36, 36, 36) sts)

Work 3 (3, 3, 3, 1, 1, 1, 1) rows even.

Rep Inc Row. (32 (32, 34, 36, 36, 38, 38, 38) sts)

Sizes 4T (6, 8, 10) ONLY:

Work 1 row even.

Rep Inc Row. (38 (40, 40, 40) sts)

All Sizes:

Work even until hood measures 5 (5.5, 6, 7, 8.5, 9.5, 10.5, 10.5)”, ending after a WS row.

Dec Row: K to 3 sts before m, k2tog, k1, sl m, k1, ssk, k to end. (2 sts decreased)

Next Row: P.

Rep last 2 rows once. (28 (28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 36, 36) sts rem)

Rep Dec Row. (26 (26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 34, 34) sts rem)

WS Dec Row: P to 3 sts before m, p2togtbl, p1, sl m, p1, p2tog, p to end. (2 sts decreased)

Rep last 2 rows once more. (20 (20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 28, 28) sts rem)

Place half of sts on left needle and half on right needle. Fold work in half with WS tog. Break yarn, leaving a long tail. Graft the 2 sides tog.

Sleeves

With dpns, beg at underarm, pick up 7 (8, 9, 10, 10, 11, 11, 12) sts up to shoulder seam and 7 (8, 9, 10, 10, 11, 11, 12) sts down to underarm. (14 (16, 18, 20, 20, 22, 22, 24) sts)

Join to work in the rnd and pm for beg of rnd.

Work in St st for 4 (4, 5, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6)”.

Dec Rnd: K1, k2tog, k to 3 sts before BOR, ssk, k1. (18 (18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 26, 26) sts rem)

Work even until sleeve measures 8 (9, 10, 10.5, 11, 11, 12, 13)”, or to desired length. BO all sts.

Ears

Make two.

CO 3.

Row 1: K.

Row 2: K1, M1, k1, M1, k1. (5 sts)

Row 3: K.

Row 4: K1, [M1, k1] 4 times. (9 sts)

Rows 5-13: K.

Row 14: SSK twice, k1, k2tog twice. (5 sts rem)

Row 15: K.

Row 16: SSK, K1, K2tog. (3 sts rem)

Row 17: K.

Break yarn and pull through rem sts.

Finishing

Fold ears in half with tails together and down. Align CO/BO edges so that top of ear forms an arc. Bend ear ends forward to create a cup shape. Sew bottom edge of ears to hood.

Sew hook and eye to front of sweater using needle and thread.

Weave in ends. Wash and block.

The post Baby Polar Bear Sherpa Knit Hoodie appeared first on I Like Knitting.

Skill Level: Intermediate

Size: Finished Bust Size 24 (26.25, 27.75, 29, 30.5)” to fit bust 20.75 (23, 25, 26.5, 28)”

2” positive ease recommended.

Shown in size 26.25”

Gauge: 22 sts and 30 rows = 4” [10 cm] in St st after wet blocking.

Materials

Yarn: Debbie Bliss Rialto DK (100% Merino Wool; 114 yards [105 meters]/50 grams): 23019 Duck Egg (MC 4 (5, 5, 6, 7) balls), 23003 Black (CC1, 1 ball), 23081 Sea Green (CC2, 1 ball), 23001 White (CC3, 1 ball), 23002 Ecru (CC4, 1 ball), 23012 Scarlet (CC5, 1 ball)

Needles: US size 6 (4 mm) straight; US size 4 (3.5 mm) straight

Notions: Yarn bobbins, markers (2), tapestry needle, chart row marker

Special Stitches

2 x 2 Ribbing

Row 1 (RS): *K2, p2; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Row 2 (WS): *P2, k2; rep from * to last 2 sts, p2.

Rep Rows 1-2 for patt.

Pattern Notes

The Festive Narwhal Sweater is worked flat from the bottom up in pieces, then seamed before adding the neckband. The festive narwhal is incorporated using the intarsia technique.

Pattern

Back

With MC and smaller needles, CO 66 (74, 78, 82, 86) sts.

Work in 2 x 2 Ribbing (worked flat) for 1.5”, ending with a WS row.

Change to larger needles.

Row 1 (RS): K17 (19, 20, 21, 22), m1 (0, 0, 0, 0), k32 (36, 38, 40, 42), m1 (0, 0, 0, 0), k17 (19, 20, 21, 22). (68 (74, 78, 82, 86) sts)

Row 2 (WS): Purl.**

Work 48 (52, 58, 68, 76) rows in St st, ending with a WS row. At this point Back should meas 8 (8.5, 9.5, 11, 12)”.

Note: If you wish to add extra length to the body of the jumper, work extra rows here in St st, then add the same number of rows to the Front of the jumper before incorporating the chart.

BO 5 sts at beg of next 2 rows. (58 (64, 68, 72, 76) sts)

Work 8 (8, 6, 6, 8) rows in St st, ending with a WS row.

Raglan Decreases

Row 1 (RS): K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (2 sts dec’d; 56 (62, 66, 70, 74) sts)

Row 2 (WS): Purl.

Work Rows 1-2, 11 (13, 15, 17, 18) more times. (34 (36, 36, 36, 38) sts)

BO all sts loosely.

Front

Work same Back to **.

Work 14 (20, 26, 36, 46) rows in St st, and the same number of extra rows you may have added to the Back for length, ending with a WS row.

Chart Placement

Next Row (RS): K12 (15, 17, 19, 21), pm, work next 44 sts from the Festive Narwhal chart, pm, k12 (15, 17, 19, 21).Cont in St st, working the appropriate row of chart between the stitch markers until you have worked a total of 34 (32, 32, 32, 30) rows of the Festive Narwhal chart.

Cont working the Narwhal chart patt between the markers, while working the armhole and raglan rows.

BO 5 sts at beg of next 2 rows. (58 (64, 68, 72, 76) sts)

Work 8 (8, 6, 6, 8) rows in St st, ending with a WS row.

Raglan Decreases

Row 1 (RS): K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (2 sts dec’d; 56 (62, 66, 70, 74) sts)

Row 2 (WS): Purl.

Work Rows 1-2, 1 (3, 5, 7, 8) more times. (54 (56, 56, 56, 58) sts)

Next Row (RS): K1, ssk, k16, BO 16 (18, 18, 18, 20) sts, k16, k2tog, k1. (18 sts rem on each side of BO)

Work only on the sts that the working yarn is attached to.

***Next Row (WS): Purl

Row 1 (RS): K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (2 sts dec’d; 16 sts)

Row 2 (WS): Purl.

Work Rows 1-2, 6 more times. (4 sts) ****

Next Row (RS): K1, k2tog, k1. (3 sts)

Next Row: Purl.

Next Row: K2tog, k1. (2 sts)

Next Row: Purl.

BO all sts.

Re-join yarn at the neckline edge at the back of the piece, then work from *** to ****.

Next Row (RS): K1, ssk, k1. (3 sts)

Next Row: Purl.

Next Row: K1, ssk. (2 sts)

Next Row: Purl.

BO all sts.

Sleeves (make 2)

With MC and smaller needles, CO 38 (42, 42, 46, 50) sts.

Work in 2 x 2 Ribbing (worked flat) for 1.5”, ending with a WS row.

Change to larger needles.

Starting with a knit row, work 6 (8, 6, 8, 10) rows in St st.

Increase Row (RS): K1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1. (2 sts inc’d; 40 (44, 44, 48, 52) sts)

Next Row (WS): Purl.

Work these 8 (10, 8, 10, 12) rows 4 (4, 6, 6, 5) more times. (48 (52, 56, 60, 62) sts)

Cont in St st until Sleeve meas 8.5 (10.5, 11.5, 12.5, 13.5)”, ending with a WS row.

BO 5 sts at beg of next 2 rows. (38 (42, 46, 50, 52) sts)

Work 8 (8, 6, 6, 8) rows in St st, ending with a WS row.

Raglan Decreases

Row 1 (RS): K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (2 sts dec’d; 36 (40, 44, 48, 50) sts)

Row 2 (WS): Purl.

Work Rows 1-2, 11 (13, 15, 17, 18) more times. (14 sts)

BO all sts loosely.

Neckband

Weave in all ends. Join shoulder seams along raglan decrease lines using mattress stitch, leaving the Back Right Shoulder seam open.

With MC and smaller needles, and starting at top right of Back with RS facing, PU and k33 (35, 35, 35, 37) sts along BO edge of Back, 12 sts along BO edge of Left Sleeve, 12 sts down Left Front edge diagonal, 16 (18, 18, 18, 20) sts across the neckline BO, 12 sts up Right Front edge diagonal, and 13 sts along BO edge of Right Sleeve. PM, join to work in the rnd. (98 (102, 102, 102, 106) sts)

Work in 2 x 2 Ribbing (in the rnd) for 1”. BO all sts loosely in patt.

Finishing

Join Back Right Shoulder, side and underarm seams.

Soak the jumper in lukewarm water. Squeeze out excess water, lie the jumper out to the dimensions shown in the schematic and leave to dry flat.

The post Festive Unicorn of the Sea Sweater appeared first on I Like Knitting.

Skill Level: Intermediate

Size: 22 (25, 28, 29, 31, 32, 33)” hip circumference x 8.5 (10, 12, 14, 15, 17, 18.5)” length.

4-5” positive ease recommended. See schematic for full details.

Shown in size 31” hip circumference

Gauge: 20 sts and 32 rows = 4” [10 cm] in St st after wet blocking.

Materials

Yarn: Dublin Dye Merino DK (100% Superwash Merino Wool); 246 yards [225 meters]/100 grams): Mermaid (2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3) skeins))

Needles: US size 5 (3.75 mm) 16” circular, US size 5 (3.75 mm) DPNs, US size 5 (3.75 mm) straight, US size 3 (3.25 mm) 12” circular or US size 2 (3.35. mm)” DPNs

Notions: Tapestry needle, yarn holders, markers, eight 1” buttons, US size D/3 (3.75 mm) crochet hook

Special Stitches

Kitchener Stitch (grafting): Thread a tapestry needle with yarn. Hold the needles with the live sts parallel. Set up: Insert the tapestry needle through the first st on the front needle purlwise and pull the yarn through but leave the st on the needle. Insert the needle through the first st on the back needle knitwise and pull the yarn through, again leaving the st on the back needle. *Insert the needle through the first st on the front needle knitwise, pull the yarn through and drop the st off the front needle. Insert the needle through the next st on the front needle as if to purl, pull the yarn through but leave the st on the needle. Insert the needle through the first st on the back needle purlwise, pull the yarn through, dropping the st off the back needle. Insert the needle through the next st on the back needle knitwise and pull the yarn through, leaving the st on the needle; rep from * until all sts are worked.

Crochet edging: Sl hook into first sts of edge together, place yarn around hook and pull through. *Sl hook into next st of edge, place yarn around hook and pull through st, place yarn around hook again and pull through both sts; rep from * until end of edging.

Pattern Notes

The overalls are worked from the bottom up.

Each leg is worked separately in the round before joining together. Then the body is continued in the round as far as the hips.

The back and front are then worked separately.

The straps are worked in moss stitch on smaller needles for stability and to create a denser fabric. Longer straps with extra buttons allow for growth and a variety of fit.

The overalls are edged in moss stitch. The gusset is worked from picked up stitches, incorporating stitches set aside from each leg.

The heart shaped pockets are worked separately, before being edged with a crochet border and then sewn in place. Cute buttons finish the piece.

Pattern

Leg (make 2)

With smaller needles, CO 42 (48, 54, 56, 60, 62, 64) sts. Join in the rnd, being careful not to twist the sts. Pm to mark beg of rnd.

Moss St Edge

Rnd 1: (K1, p1) to end of rnd.

Rep Rnd 1, 6 (6, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8) more times.

Next Rnd (Inc): (K1, Kfb) to end of rnd. (63 (72, 81, 84, 90, 93, 96) sts)

Leg

Change to larger needles.

Work in St st for 6 (8, 10, 12, 16, 20, 24) rnds. Remove markers. Break yarn.

Join Legs Together

Use larger circular needles.

Rnd 1: K28 (32, 36, 37, 40, 41, 42) from Leg 1, place the next 7 (8, 9, 10, 10, 11, 12) sts from Leg 1 onto a yarn holder, CO 5 (6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 8) sts, k56 (64, 72, 74, 80, 82, 84) from Leg 2, place the next 7 (8, 9, 10, 10, 11, 12) sts from Leg 2 onto a yarn holder, CO 5 (6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 8) sts, k28 (32, 36, 37, 40, 41, 42) from Leg 1. Pm to mark beg of rnd. (122 (140, 158, 162, 176, 180, 184) sts)

Body

Work in St st for 20 (24, 32, 36, 40, 44, 48) rnds.

Separate back and front

Place the previous 61 (70, 79, 81, 88, 90, 92) sts on yarn holder for Back.

Front Flap

Row 1: [K1, p1] 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) times, pm, k49 (58, 63, 65, 68, 70, 72), pm, [K1, p1] 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) times. (61 (70, 79, 81, 88, 90, 92) sts)

Row 2: [K1, p1] 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) times, sm, p to marker, sm, [k1, p1] 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) times.

Row 3: [K1, p1] 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) times, sm, ssk, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, [k1, p1] 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) times. (59 (68, 77, 79, 86, 88, 90) sts)

Row 4: Rep Row 2.

Rep Rows 3-4, 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 5, 5) times more. (55 (64, 71, 73, 78, 78, 80) sts)

Buttonhole Row: [K1, p1] 1 (1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) times, yo, p2tog, [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2) times, sm, ssk, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2) times, yo, p2tog, [k1, p1] 1 (1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) times. (55 (64, 71, 73, 78, 78, 80) sts)

Next Row: Rep Row 2.

Rep Rows 3-4, 10 (12, 16, 16, 18, 18, 20) times more. (35 (40, 39, 41, 42, 42, 40) sts)

Moss St Edging

Row 1: (K1, p1) to end of rnd.

Rep Row 1, 3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4) times.

Buttonhole Row: [K1, p1] twice, yo, p2tog, [k1, p1] until 6 sts rem, yo, p2tog, [k1, p1] twice.

Rep Row 1, 3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4) times.

BO all sts.

Back

Place live sts on larger needles.

Pick up and k8 (10, 12, 14, 16, 16, 18) from purl bumps at back of Front Flap right hand side, k61 (70, 79, 81, 88, 90, 92) sts from needle and pick up and k8 (10, 12, 14, 16, 16, 18) from purl bumps at back of front flap left hand side. (77 (90, 103, 109, 120, 122, 128) sts)

Row 1: [K1, p1] 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) times, pm, k65 (78, 87, 93, 100, 102, 108), pm, [k1, p1] 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) times.

Row 2: [K1, p1] 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) times, sm, p to marker, sm, [k1, p1] 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) times.

Rep Rows 1 and 2 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5) times more.

Next Row (Dec): [K1, p1] 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) times, sm, [k2, k2tog] 21 (26, 29, 33, 33, 36, 40) times, sm, [k1, p1] 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) times. (56 (64, 74, 76, 87, 86, 88) sts)

Row 2: [K1, p1] 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) times, sm, p to marker, sm, [k1, p1] 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) times.

Remove markers.

Moss St Edge

Row 1: [K1, p1] 11 (13, 16, 15, 18, 17, 17) times, pm, k12 (12, 10, 16, 15, 18, 20) times, pm, [1, p1] 11 (13, 16, 15, 18, 17, 17) times. (56 (64, 74, 76, 87, 86, 88) sts)

Row 2: [K1, p1] 11 (13, 16, 15, 18, 17, 17) times, sm, p to marker, sm, [k1, p1] 11 (13, 16, 15, 18, 17, 17) times.

Row 3: [K1, p1] 11 (13, 16, 15, 18, 17, 17) times, sm, ssk, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, [k1, p1] 11 (13, 16, 15, 18, 17, 17) times. (54 (62, 72, 74, 85, 84, 86) sts)

Row 4: Rep Row 2.

Rep Rows 3-4, 3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4) times more. (48 (56, 66, 66, 77, 76, 78) sts)

Next Row: BO 16 (20, 24, 22, 26, 24, 24) sts, [k1, p1] 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) times, sm, ssk, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, [k1, p1] 11 (13, 16, 15, 18, 17, 17) times. (32 (36, 42, 44, 51, 52, 54) sts)

Next Row: BO 16 (20, 24, 22, 26, 24, 24) sts, [k1, p1] 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) times, sm, p to marker, sm, [k1, p1] 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) times. (16 (16, 18, 22, 25, 28, 30) sts)

Next row: [K1, p1] 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) times, sm, ssk, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, [k1, p1] 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) times. (14 (14, 16, 20, 23, 26, 28) sts)

Cont in est patt until 12 (12, 16, 16, 21, 20, 20) sts rem.

Size – (-, -, -, 31, -, -) sts) hip circumference only

Next Row: [k1, p1] 5 times, k2tog, p1, [k1, p1] 5 times. (-(-, -, -, 20, -, -) sts)

All Sizes

Row 1: [K1, p1] 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 10, 10) times.

Work 7 (7, 7, 9, 9, 9, 9) more rows in est patt.

Straps

Change to smaller needles.

Row 1: [K1, p1] 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) times, place rem 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 10, 10) sts on yarn holder. (6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 10, 10) sts)

Rep Row 1 until Strap meas 7 (7, 8, 9, 10, 12, 12, 14)” or desired length.

BO sts.

Strap 2

Place sts on needle and rejoin yarn.

Row 1: [K1, p1] 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) times. (6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 10, 10) sts)

Rep Row 1 until Strap meas 7 (7, 8, 9, 10, 12, 12, 14)” or desired length.

BO sts.

Gusset

Place 7 (8, 9, 10, 10, 11, 12) sts from each yarn holder on larger size DPNs.

With RS facing and another DPN, pick up and k5 (6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 8) sts from front CO edge.

Row 1: Working flat, sl1, p until 1 st rem on front DPN, then p rem st tog with first st on right-hand side DPN. Turn work.

Row 2: Sl1, k until 1 st rem, then k rem st with first st on left hand side. Turn work.

Rep Rows 1-2, 3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5) more times, leave sts on DPN. Break yarn.

With RS facing and another DPN, pick up and k5 (6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 8) sts from back CO edge.

Row 1: Working flat, sl1, p until 1 st rem on front DPN, then p rem st tog with first st on right-hand side DPN. Turn work.

Row 2: Sl 1, k until 1 st rem, then k rem st with first st on left-hand side. Turn work.

Rep Rows 1-2, 2 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4) times, leave sts on DPN. Break yarn, leaving a long tail.

Graft two edges together using Kitchener st.

Pocket

Make 2 sizes: Small and Large.

Make 2 small pockets for Back and one large pocket for Front Flap.

CO 2 sts.

Row 1 (RS): [Kfb] twice. (4 sts)
Row 2 and all WS rows: Purl.
Row 3:  K1, m1, k2, m1, k1. (6 sts)
Row 5:  K1, m1, k4, m1, k1. (8 sts)
Row 7:  K1, m1, k6, m1, k1. (10 sts)
Row 9:  K1, m1, k8, m1, k1. (12 sts)

Large Pocket only

Row 11: K1, m1, k10, m1, k1. (14 sts)

All Sizes

Break yarn.

Push the work to end of needle, saving it for later.
Rep Rows 1-9 (11), starting by CO to the empty needle.

Join the two pieces together by purling across both pieces.
Work the next 2 (4) rows in St st. (24 (28) sts)

Dec Section

Row 1: K1, ssk, k18 (22), k2tog, k1. (22 (26) sts)
Row 2 and all WS rows: Purl.
Row 3: K1, ssk, k16 (20), k2tog, k1. (20 (24) sts)
Row 5: K1, ssk, k14 (18), k2tog, k1. (18 (22) sts)
Cont in est patt until 4 sts rem.

Next Row: Ssk, k2tog, break yarn and pull through both sts.

Block Heart.

Work crochet edging all around the Heart, starting at bottom point.

Finishing

Sew in all ends.

Sew on Pockets, using photos as guide.

Using photos as a guide, sew on buttons securely using matching yarn or thread..

Block top to dimensions on schematic.

The post Layla Toddler Overalls appeared first on I Like Knitting.

Skill Level: Easy

Size:  6” / [15 cm] x 18” / [46 cm]

Gauge: 20 sts and 34 rows = 4” [10 cm] in Garter st after wet blocking.

Materials

Yarn: Hayfield Bonus Glitter DK (95% Acrylic, 5% Polyester); 324 yards [296 meters]/100 grams): 226 Silver Gray (1 ball)

Needles: US size 5 (3.75 mm) 12” straight

Notions: Tapestry needle, US size D/3 (3.75mm) crochet hook, three 1” blue jeweled buttons, four 0.5” blue jeweled buttons, three 0.5” silver buttons, approx. 20 grams toy stuffing

Special Stitches

Garter st: Knit all rows.

Crochet Edging: Sl hook into first sts of both edges together, place yarn around hook and pull through. *Sl hook into next sts of both edges, place yarn around hook and pull through sts, place yarn around hook again and pull through both sts; rep from * until end of edging.

Pattern

Crown

CO 20 sts.

Rows 1-10: Work in Garter st, sl the first st of every row.

Point 1

Rows 11-12: Cont to work in Garter st, CO 10 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. (40 sts)

Row 13: Sl 1, k until 3 sts rem, k2tog, k1. (39 sts)

Rows 14-32: Rep Row 13 nineteen more times until 20 sts rem. (20 sts)

Point 2

Rows 33-34: Cont to work in Garter st, CO 15 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. (50 sts)

Row 35: Sl 1, k until 3 sts rem, k2tog, k1. (49 sts)

Rows 36-64: Rep Row 35 twenty-nine more times until 20 sts rem. (20 sts)

Point 3

Row 65: Sl 1, m1, k until 1 st rem, m1, k1. (22 sts)

Row 66: Sl 1, k to end.

Rows 67-104: Rep Rows 65-66 nineteen more times until you have 60 sts. (60 sts)

Row 105: Sl 1, ssk, k until 3 sts rem, k2tog, k1. (58 sts)

Row 106: Sl1, k to end.

Rows 107-144: Rep Rows 105-106 19 more times until you 20 sts rem. (20 sts)

Point 4

Row 145: Sl 1, m1, k until 1 st rem, m1, k1. (22 sts)

Row 146: Sl 1, k to end.

Rows 147-174: Rep Rows 145-146 fourteen more times until you have 50 sts. (50 sts)

Rows 175-176: Cont to work in Garter st, BO 15 sts at the beg of the next 2 rows. (20 sts)

Point 5

Row 177: Sl 1, m1, k until I st rem, m1, k1. (22 sts)

Row 178: Sl 1, k to end.

Rows 179-196: Rep Rows 175-176 nine more times until you have 40 sts. (40 sts)

Row 197-198: Cont to work in Garter st, BO 10 sts at the beg of the next 2 rows. (20 sts)

Rows 199-208: Work in Garter st, sl the first st of every row.

Finishing

Sew CO end to BO end using Mattress st.

Sew in ends.

Fold the crown in half lengthways, aligning the points. Pin in place.

Using Crochet Edging, attach the two sides together, lightly stuffing the crown as you work up and down the points.

Sew end of Crochet Edging to beginning. Remove pins.

Add jeweled buttons using photos as a guide.

The post Crown Jewels appeared first on I Like Knitting.

Skill Level: Intermediate

Size: Finished Chest Size 16 (17, 18, 19, 20)” for infant size 3m (6m, 12m, 18m, 24m)

Gauge: 20 sts and 26 rows = 4” [10 cm] in St st

Materials

Yarn: Berroco Comfort (50% Acrylic, 50% Nylon; 210 yards [193 meters]/100 grams): #9771 Driftwood Heather (MC, 1 (1, 2, 2, 3) skeins, #9760 Beet Root (CC1, 1 skein), #9807 Military Mix (CC2, 1 skein), #9734 Licorice (CC3, 1 skein)

Needles: US size 7 (4.5mm) straight, 8 (5.0mm) straight

Notions: Tapestry needle, 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) ½” buttons, matching thread, sewing needle

Special Stitches

K1, P1 Rib

All Rows: *K1, p1; rep from * to end.

Pattern Notes

For size 3m, omit Rows 1 and 22 of chart. Work Rows 2-21 for a total of 20 rows of chart.

Sleeves are grafted in after front and back of dress are worked.

Pattern

Back
With CC1 and smaller needles, CO 48 (50, 52, 54, 58) sts.

Ribbing

Work in K1, P1 Rib for 4 (4, 6, 6, 8) rows.

Body

Change to larger needles and with MC, knit 1 row.

Working in St st, dec 1 st each side next row and every 10th row 3 times. (40 (42, 44, 46, 50) sts)

Work 0 (0, 4, 8, 12) rows even in St st.

All Sizes

Work Band Chart in St st for next 3 rows.

Change to CC2.

Cont in St st for 13 (15, 17, 19, 21) rows.

Armhole

Row 1: BO 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) sts, work in St st for 16 (17, 18, 18, 20) sts, join other end of yarn ball, BO 4 sts, work in St st to end.

Row 2: BO 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) sts, work in St st to end (work both sides at same time). (16 (17, 18, 18, 20) sts each side).

Work even in CC2 and St st for 5 rows.

Work Band Chart in St st for next 3 rows.

Work even in MC and St st for 3 (4, 4, 6, 6) rows.

Neck Shaping

Work both sides at same time.

Sl 4 sts from neck edge to waste yarn or holder. (12 (13, 14, 14, 16) sts)

Dec 1 st at neck edge every row 5 times. (7 (8, 9, 9, 11) sts)

Work even in St st 2 (3, 3, 5, 5) rows.

BO all sts.

Front

With CC1 and smaller needles, CO 48 (50, 52, 54, 58) sts.

Ribbing

Work in K1, P1 Rib for 4 (4, 6, 6, 8) rows.

Body

Change to larger needles and MC, knit 1 row.

Working in St st, dec 1 st each side next row and every 10th row 3 times. (40 (42, 44, 46, 50) sts)

Work 0 (0, 4, 8, 12) rows even in St st.

All Sizes

Work Band Chart in St st for next 3 rows.

Change to CC2.

Cont in St st, work 0 (1, 2, 3, 5) sts in CC2, work across Band Chart, work 0 (1, 2, 3, 5) sts in CC2 for 13 (15, 17, 19, 21) rows.

Armhole

Row 1: BO 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) sts, work Band Chart as est in St st to end. (38 (40, 42, 43, 47) sts)

Row 2: Rep Row 1. (36 (38, 40, 40, 44) sts)

Work even in Band Chart as est in St st for 5 rows.

Work Band Chart in St st for next 3 rows.

Work even in MC and St st for 3 (4, 4, 6, 6) rows.

Neck Shaping

Work 12 (13, 14, 14, 16) sts, sl next 12 sts to holder or waste yarn, join other end of yarn ball, work 12 (13, 14, 14, 16) sts, working both sides at same time.

Dec 1 st at neck edge every row 5 times. (7 (8, 9, 9, 11) sts)

Work even in St st for 2 (3, 3, 5, 5) rows.

Block pieces.

Sew Front to Back at shoulder seams.

Sleeves

With RS facing, MC, and larger needles, pick up and k34 (36, 36, 42, 42) sts between armhole BO sts. (34 (36, 36, 42, 42) sts)

Work even in St st 0 (3, 6, 9, 12) rows.

Dec 1 st each side every 6th row 5 times. (24 (26, 26, 32, 32) sts)

Change to CC2 and smaller needles.

Work in K1, P1 Rib for 3 (3, 5, 5, 7) rows.

BO all sts in rib.

Collar

With CC2 and RS facing, pick up and k4 sts from Left Back Neck holder, 4 (5, 5, 7, 7) sts across Left Back Neck edge, 4 (5, 5, 7, 7) sts across Left Front Neck edge, 12 sts from Front Neck holder, 4 (5, 5, 7, 7) sts from Right Front Neck edge, 4 (5, 5, 7, 7) from Right Back Neck edge, 4 sts from Right Back Neck holder. (36 (40, 40, 48, 48) sts)

Work in K1, P1 Rib for 3 (3, 5, 5, 7) rows.

BO all sts in rib.

Button Band

With RS facing, smaller needles and CC2, pick up and k10 (12, 12, 14, 14) sts across Right Back placket.

Work in K1, P1 Rib for 3 rows.

BO all sts in rib.

Buttonhole Band

With RS facing, smaller needles and CC2, pick up and k10 (12, 12, 14, 14) sts across Left Back placket.

Row 1: Work in K1P1 rib.

Sizes 3m (6m, 12m, -, -) Only

Row 2: Cont in est rib patt, work 2 (3, 3, -, -) sts, BO next st, work next 4 (5, 5) sts, BO next st, work last 2 sts.

Row 3: Cont in est rib patt, work first 2 sts, CO 1 st, work next 4 (5, 5) sts, CO 1 st, work last 2 (3, 3) sts.

BO all sts in rib.

Sizes – (-, -, 18m, 24m) Only

Row 2: Cont in est rib patt, work 3 sts, BO next st, work next 3 sts, BO next st, work 3 sts, BO next st, work last 2 sts.

Row 3: Cont in est rib patt, work 2 sts, CO 1 st, work next 3 sts, CO 1 st, work next 3 sts, CO 1 st, work last 3 sts.

BO all sts in rib.

Finishing

Seam sleeve and side seams.

Weave in ends.

Sew buttons opposite buttonholes.

The post Black Bear Baby Sweater appeared first on I Like Knitting.

Skill Level: Intermediate

Size: 3m (6m, 12m, 18m, 24m, 2T, 3T, 4T, 5T) to fit chest circumference of 16 (17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24)”

Gauge: 22 sts and 31 rows = 4” [10 cm] in St st after wet blocking

Materials

Yarn: Cascade Yarns 220 Superwash (100% Superwash Wool; 220 yards [200 meters]/100 grams): 863 Cordovan (C1, 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1) ball), 204 Smoke Blue (C1, 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3) balls), 910A Winter White (C3, 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1) ball), 1922 Christmas Red Heather (C4, 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3) balls)

Needles: US size 3 (3.25 mm) 24” straight or circular, US Size 4 (3.5 mm) circular

Notions: Markers, tapestry needle, 6 (6, 7, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9) ½” buttons

Pattern Notes

Before starting the moose on the back, cut a 2-yard piece of yarn in C3, this way you can use the piece for one of the moose and the yarn from the ball for the second moose so you don’t have to have strands running between the two moose.

Pattern

Back

Border

Using larger needles and C1, CO 51 (55, 57, 59, 63, 65, 69, 71, 73) sts.

Knit 6 rows.

Switch to C2.

Row 1 (RS): Knit.

Row 2 (WS): Purl.

Work these two rows a total of 9 (11, 13, 15, 17, 17, 19, 22, 25) times.

Switch to C1.

Knit one row.

Sizes – (-, -, -, -, 2T, 3T, 4T, 5T) only
Purl one row.

Switch to C3.

Knit one row.

All Sizes
Next Row (WS): With C3, p8 (9, 10, 10, 12, 12, 14, 15, 16), pm, p16, pm, p3 (5, 5, 7, 7, 9, 9, 9, 9), pm, p16, pm, p8 (9, 10, 10, 12, 12, 14, 15, 16).

Moose

Row 1 (RS): K to marker, sm, work Left Facing Moose chart to marker, sm, k to marker, work Right Facing Moose chart to marker, sm, k to end.

Row 2 (WS): P to marker, work Right Facing Moose chart to marker, sm, p to marker, work Left Facing Moose chart to marker, sm, p to end.

Work Rows 1-2 a total of 7 times.

With C3, knit one row.

Sizes – (-, -, -, -, 2T, 3T, 4T, 5T) only
Purl one row.

Switch to C1.

Knit one row.

All Sizes
With C1, purl one row.

Arm Shaping

Switch to C2.

Row 1 (RS): Knit.

Row 2 (WS): Purl.

Row 3: BO 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5), knit to end. (48 (52, 54, 56, 59, 61, 65, 66, 68) sts)

Row 4: BO 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5), purl to end. (45 (49, 51, 53, 55, 57, 61, 61, 63) sts)

Row 5: K1, ssk, k until 3 sts rem, k2tog, k1. (2 sts dec’d)

Row 6: Purl.

Work Rows 5-6 a total of 1 (1, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3) times. 43 (47, 47, 49, 51, 51, 55, 55, 57) sts

Work even in St st for 22 (24, 24, 26, 28, 26, 30, 32, 36) rows.

Shoulder Shaping

BO 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3) sts at the beg of the next 4 rows. (35 (39, 39, 41, 43, 39, 43, 43, 45) sts)

BO all sts.

Right Front

Border

Using larger needles and C1, CO 25 (27, 29, 30, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36) sts.

Knit 6 rows.

Switch to C2.

Row 1 (RS): Knit.

Row 2 (WS): Purl.

Work these two rows a total of 9 (11, 13, 15, 17, 17, 19, 22, 25) times.

Switch to C1.

Knit one row.

Sizes – (-, -, -, -, 2T, 3T, 4T, 5T) only
Purl one row.

Switch to C3.

Knit one row.

All Sizes
With C3, p8 (9, 10, 10, 12, 12, 14, 15, 16), pm, p16, pm, p1 (2, 3, 4, 4, 5, 3, 4, 4), pm, p to end.

Moose

Row 1 (RS): K to marker, sm, work Right Facing Moose chart to marker, sm, k to end.

Row 2 (WS): P to marker, sm, work Right Facing Moose to marker, sm, p to end.

Work Rows 1-2 a total of 7 times.

With C3, knit one row.

Sizes – (-, -, -, -, 2T, 3T, 4T, 5T) only
Purl one row.

Switch to C1.

Knit one row.

All Sizes
With C1, purl one row.

Arm Shaping

Switch to C2.

Row 1 (RS): Knit.

Row 2 (WS): Purl.

Row 3: BO 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5), knit to end. (22 (24, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 30, 31) sts)

Row 4: Purl.

Row 5: K until 3 sts rem, k2tog, k1. (1 st dec’d)

Row 6: Purl.

Work Rows 5-6 a total of 1 (1, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3) times. (21 (23, 24, 25, 26, 26, 27, 27, 28) sts)

Work even in St st for 12 (14, 14, 16, 18, 16, 20, 22, 26) rows.

Neck Increases

Row 1 (RS): K1, ssk, k to end. (1 st dec’d)

Row 2 (WS): Purl.

Work Rows 1-2 a total of 5 (5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5) times. (16 (18, 19, 20, 21, 21, 22, 22, 23) sts)

Shoulder Shaping

Row 1 (RS): Knit.

Row 2 (WS): BO 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3) sts, p to end. (2 sts dec’d)

Work Rows 1-2 twice total. (12 (14, 15, 16, 17, 15, 16, 16, 17) sts)

BO all sts.

Left Front

Border

Using larger needles and C1, CO 25 (27, 29, 30, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36) sts.

Knit 6 rows.

Switch to C2.

Row 1 (RS): Knit.

Row 2 (WS): Purl.

Work these two rows a total of 9 (11, 13, 15, 17, 17, 19, 22, 25) times.

Switch to C1.

Knit one row.

Sizes – (-, -, -, -, 2T, 3T, 4T, 5T) only
Purl one row.

Switch to C3.

Knit one row.

All Sizes
With C3, p1 (2, 3, 4, 4, 5, 3, 4, 4), pm, p16, pm, p8 (9, 10, 10, 12, 12, 14, 15, 16), pm, p to end.

Moose

Row 1 (RS): K to marker, sm, work Left Facing Moose to marker, sm, k to end.

Row 2 (WS): P to marker, work Left Facing Moose to marker, sm, p to end.

Work Rows 1-2 a total of 7 times.

With C3, knit one row.

Sizes – (-, -, -, -, 2T, 3T, 4T, 5T) only
Purl one row.

Switch to C1.

Knit one row.

All Sizes

With C1, purl one row.

Arm Shaping

Switch to C2.

Row 1 (RS): Knit.

Row 2 (WS): Purl.

Row 3: Knit.

Row 4: BO 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5), purl to end. (22 (24, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 30, 31) sts)

Row 5: K1, k2tog, k to end. (1 st dec’d)

Row 6: Purl.

Work Rows 5-6 a total of 1 (1, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3) times. (21 (23, 24, 25, 26, 26, 27, 27, 28) sts)

Work even in St st for 12 (14, 14, 16, 18, 16, 20, 22, 26) rows.

Neck Increases

Row 1 (RS): K until 3 sts rem, k2tog, k1. (1 st dec’d)

Row 2 (WS): Purl.

Work Rows 1-2 a total of 5 (5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5) times. (16 (18, 19, 20, 21, 21, 22, 22, 23) sts) 

Shoulder Shaping

Row 1 (RS): BO 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3) sts, k to end. (2 sts dec’d)

Row 2 (WS): Purl

Work Rows 1-2 twice total. (12 (14, 15, 16, 17, 15, 16, 16, 17) sts)

BO all sts.

Sleeves (make two)

Using smaller needles and C1, CO 33 (35, 37, 37, 39, 39, 41, 43, 45) sts.

Row 1 (RS): K1, *p1, k1; rep from * to end.

Row 2 (WS): P1, *k1, p1; rep from * to end.

Work Rows 1-2 a total of 5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 8) times.

Switch to larger needles and C4.

Row 1 (RS): Knit.

Row 2 (WS): Purl.

Cont in St st in C4, replacing Row 1 with the Inc Row (below) on the following rows AT THE SAME TIME work the colourwork:

Sizes 3m (6m, -, -, -, -, -, -, -): Rows 9 (19, -, -, -, -, -, -, -). (35 (39, -, -, -, -, -, -, -) sts)

Sizes – (-, 12m, 18m, 24m, -, -, -, -): Rows – (-, 9, 19, 29, -, -, -, -). (- (-, 43, 43, 45, -, -, -, -) sts)

Sizes – (-, -, -, -, 2T, 3T, 4T, 5T): Rows – (-, -, -, -, 9, 17, 25, 33). (- (-, -, -, -, 47, 49, 51, 53) sts)

Inc Row: Kfb, k until 2 sts rem, kfb, k1. (2 sts inc’d)

Colorwork

Work 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2) row(s) of C1, starting on Row 11 (13, 17, 19, 23, 21, 25, 31, 37).

Work 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2) row(s) of C3, starting on Row 12 (14, 18, 20, 24, 23, 27, 33, 39).

Right Sleeve Set Up Row: K9 (11, 13, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18) sts, pm, work Left Facing Moose, pm, k to end.

Left Sleeve Set Up Row: K10 (12, 14, 15, 16m 17m 18, 19) sts, pm, work Right Facing Moose, pm, k to end.

Both Sleeves

Cont working Moose pattern as established between the markers until it is finished.

Work 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2) row(s) of C3.

Work 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2) row(s) of C1.

Switch to C4.

Row 1 (RS): Knit.

Row 2 (WS): Purl.

Row 3: BO 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5) sts, knit to end. (32 (36, 40, 40, 41, 43, 45, 46, 48) sts)

Row 4: BO 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5) sts, purl to end. (29 (33, 37, 37, 37, 39, 41, 41, 43) sts)

Row 5: Knit.

Row 6: Purl.

Row 7: K1, ssk, k until 3 sts rem k2tog, k1. (2 sts dec’d)

Row 8: Purl.

Rep Rows 5-8, – (-, -, -, -, 1, 1, 1, 1) more times. (27 (31, 35, 35, 35, 35, 37, 37, 39) sts)

Rep Rows 7-8, 5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 7, 8, 9, 11) more times. (17 (19, 21, 19, 17, 21, 21, 18, 21) sts)

BO all sts.

Finishing

Sew together and weave in ends.

Buttonband

Beg at right and using C1, pick up sts for buttonhole as follow:

Pick up 45 (49, 54, 63, 63, 66, 72, 78, 81) sts between bottom and the point where the neck decreases start, pick up 16 (16, 16, 16, 16, 16, 16, 16, 16) sts along the neck decs, pick up 13 (14, 15, 16, 16, 17, 17, 18, 19) sts along back neck, pick up 16 (16, 16, 16, 16, 16, 16, 16, 16), sts along the neck decs, pick up 45 (49, 54, 63, 63, 66, 72, 78, 81) sts along the left side. (135 (144, 155, 174, 174, 181, 193, 206, 213) sts)

Knit 4 rows.

Buttonhole Row: K4, (k2tog, yo, k7) 5 (5, 6, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8) times, k2tog, yo, k to end.

Knit 4 rows.

BO all sts.

Weave in ends from band. Sew buttons opposite buttonholes.

The post Silly Moose Toddler Cardigan appeared first on I Like Knitting.

Skill Level: Intermediate

Size: Finished Size 3T. 11” around chest, 14” from shoulders down.

Gauge: 19 sts and 26 rows = 4” [10 cm] in St st after wet blocking on larger needle

Materials

Yarn: Hobby Lobby I Love this Yarn! (100% Acrylic; 355 yards [325 meters]/199 grams): 200 Grey Mist (MC, 1 ball), 30 Black (CC1 1 ball), 365 Graphite (CC2 1 ball), 40 Red (CC3, 1 ball), 20 Ivory (CC4, 1 ball)

Needles: US size 6 (4.0mm) circular, US size 6 (4.0mm) double pointed needles (for armholes),     US size 7 (4.5 mm) circular or double pointed needles

Notions: Stitch holders or waste yarn, stitch markers, four 1” buttons, sewing needle and matching thread to sew on buttons, tapestry needle, spare US Size 7 needle

Special Stitches

1 x 1 Rib (in the rnd/flat)

All Rnds/Rows: *K1, p1; rep from *.

Pattern Notes

This pattern is worked flat from the bottom up, including the hood.

The tops of the shoulders are seamed together using Kitchener stitch as well as the seam of the hood.

Ribbing around armholes and buttonband are then added on.

Buttonholes made using the 3-stitch buttonhole technique.

Pattern

Body

Using MC and smaller needles, CO 104 sts.
Rows 1-8: *K1, p1; rep from * across.

Switch to larger needles.

Work in St st (knit all sts on RS and purl all sts on WS) until garment measures 9” from CO edge, ending on a WS row.

Switch to CC1.

Next Row (RS): K24, place next 56 sts on stitch holder or scrap yarn to be held for neck, place next 24 sts on different stitch holder or scrap yarn for shoulder.

Next Row (WS): BO 5, purl to end. (19 sts)

Beg Buffalo Plaid patt, work Rows 1-24 of Chart A (Right Front). (13 sts rem)

Place sts on scrap yarn.

Left Front

Place Left Front sts on larger needles, ready to work WS with CC1.

Next Row (WS): Purl.

Next Row (RS): BO 5, knit to end. (19 sts)

Beg Buffalo Plaid patt, work Rows 1-24 of Chart B (Left Front). (13 sts rem)

Back

Place 56 sts for Back on larger needles, ready to work RS with CC1.

Next Row (RS): K3tog, knit to last 3, k3tog. (52 sts)

Next Row (WS): BO 2, purl to end. (50 sts)

Beg Buffalo Plaid patt, work Chart C (Back). (36 sts rem)

Finishing

Shoulders

Place outside 8 sts from each shoulder onto spare larger needle ready to be worked. Join with outside 8 sts from each side using Kitchener stitch and CC1.

Pick up rem 5 sts from each shoulder onto spare needle. With RS facing, k5 from Right Front Shoulder, rem 20 sts from Back, rem 5 sts from Left Front shoulder. (30 sts)

Next Row (WS): Purl.

Hood

Inc Row (RS): Using MC, k1, m1, knit to last st, m1, k1. (2 sts inc’d)

Next Row (WS): Purl.

Rep last two rows, working Inc Row a total of 18 times. (66 sts total)

Work in St st until Hood meas 11”, ending on a WS row”.

Place 33 sts on spare needle ready to be worked. Fold Hood in half with RS facing out. Close along top hood using Kitchener stitch.

Armhole Ribbing

Using smaller needles and MC, starting at underarm, pick up 48 sts evenly around armhole, pm, join in the rnd.

Work in 1 x 1 Rib for 6 rnds.

BO all sts.

Rep for other armhole.

Button Band

Using smaller needles and MC, pick up 59 sts, switch to CC4, cont to pick up 85 sts, switch to MC, pick up 59 sts. (203 sts)

Work in 1 x 1 Rib for 5 rows.

Buttonhole Row (RS): Place markers for buttonholes 1” from the bottom right edge and 11.5” from the same bottom edge and with 2 more markers spaced evenly in between. Work in est rib patt, working a 3-stitch buttonhole at each marker.

Cont in 1 x 1 Rib for 4 more rows.

BO all sts.

Sew on buttons along other side of buttonband, evenly matching buttonholes.

The post Woodsy Hoodsy Toddler Vest appeared first on I Like Knitting.

Skill Level: Easy

Size: 3.5” / [8 cm] x 16” / [40 cm]

0.5” negative ease recommended.

Gauge: 20 sts and 32 rows = 4” [10 cm] in St st after wet blocking.

Materials

Yarn: Rico Design Baby So Soft DK (100% Acrylic); 273 yards [250 meters]/100 grams): 026 Soft Pink (1 ball)

Needles: US size 5 (3.75 mm) 12” circular and straights

Notions: Tapestry needle, 13 markers.

Abbreviations

SR: German Short Rows

Special Stitches

I used the German method of creating short rows in the headband. Use whichever method you prefer. If you are working the “wrap and turn”, work this at the turning point and ignore the “SR” instruction at the start of the following row, then work the wrapped stitches together with their wraps as you come to them.

With WS facing: Sl st p-wise with yarn in front and bring yarn up, over and back to pull on the slipped st until it slides around to show two legs. bring the yarn to the front in order to p next st while keeping the tension.

With RS facing: Bring yarn to the front, sl st p-wise and bring yarn up, over and back to pull on the slipped st until it slides around to show two legs. Keeping the yarn at the back in order to k next st while keeping the tension.

When working the stitch, the next time you meet it, work the “doubled stitch” as if it were one, that is, work the two legs together.

Pattern Notes

Recommended yarn has been discontinued, but is still widely available. Any DK weight acrylic yarn will work in this pattern. Ensure you get correct gauge if substituting yarn.

Pattern

Headband

CO 80 sts. Join in the rnd, being careful not to twist the stitches. Pm to mark beg of rnd.

Rnd 1: Knit-tbl.

Rnd 2: Knit.

Short Row Shaping

The short row shaping is worked flat.

Row 1: K75, turn work.

Row 2: SR, p5, pm, p until 5 sts rem, turn work.

Row 3: SR, k5, pm, k to marker, turn work.

Row 4: SR, p5, pm, p to marker, turn work.

Rows 5-14: Rep Rows 3-4, 5 more times

Row 15: SR, k to end of rnd, working any double sts you meet as one st and removing all markers.

Return to working in the rnd.

Rnd 16: Knit, working any double sts you meet as one st and removing all markers.

Rnds 17-20: Work in St st.

BO all sts loosely.

Weave in ends and gently block under a cloth with a steam iron.

Bow

CO 20 sts.

Row 1: Sl1, k to end.

Row 2: Sl1, p to end.

Rep Rows 1-2 until piece meas 14”.

BO all sts.

Sew CO edge to BO edge using mattress st.

Weave in ends and gently block under a cloth with a steam iron.

Bow Center

CO 8 sts.

Row 1: Sl1, k to end.

Row 2: Sl1, p to end.

Rep Rows 1-2 until piece meas 2.5”.

BO all sts.

Weave in ends and gently block under a cloth with a steam iron.

Finishing

Wrap yarn tightly around the middle of the larder bow piece.

Attach Bow piece to Headband at the narrowest point. Wrap centre bow piece around both the larger piece and Headband before sewing cast on and bind off ends together at the back of Headband.

Secure the Bow to Headband with a few securing stitches if the Bow is too floppy.

The post Linnaea Bow Headband appeared first on I Like Knitting.

Time: Weekend Project

Skill Level: Intermediate

Size: Approximately 11” by 11” when assembled

Gauge: 20 sts and 29 rows = 4” [10 cm] in St st

Materials

Yarn: Cascade Yarns ReVive (100% recycled wool; 197 yards [180 meters]/100 grams): Aqua Haze 16 (MC, 1 ball), Duck Green 08 (CC, 1 ball)

Needles: US size 3 (3.25 mm) dpns, set of 5

Notions: Polyester fiberfill, 2 black acrylic safety eyes (15 mm), tapestry needle, extra needle or stitch holder, sewing pins (optional)

Abbreviations

kfb – knit into the front and back of the same st (1 st increased)

Pattern

Head

With MC, CO 4.

Rnd 1: Kfb every st, distribute over dpns and join to work in the rnd. (8 sts)

Rnd 2: Kfb every st. (16 sts)

Rnds 3-6: Knit.

Rnd 7: [K1, kfb] 8 times. (24 sts)

Rnds 8-11: Knit.

Rnd 12: [K2, (M1, k1) 3 times, k1, kfb, k4, kfb] 2 times. (34 sts)

Rnds 13-16: Knit.

Rnd 17: [K2, (M1, k1) 5 times, k2, kfb, k6, kfb] 2 times. (48 sts)

Rnds 18-21: Knit.

Rnd 22: [Kfb, k12, kfb, k10] 2 times. (52 sts)

Note: Sts 1-16 are the top of the head. Sts 17-26 are the side of the face. Sts 27-42 are the underside of the face/chin. Sts 43-52 are the other side of the face. With that shaping in mind, place the safety eyes in the face at approximately Rnd 17 on either side of the face, towards the top of the head. The safety eyes on the sample turtle are placed in Rnd 17, after the first “kfb” of the rnd and before the last “kfb” of the rnd.

Rnds 23-28: Knit.

Rnd 29: [K2tog, k12, k2tog, k10] 2 times. (48 sts rem)

Rnd 30: Knit.

Rnd 31: [K4, k2tog] 8 times. (40 sts rem)

Rnd 32: [K3, k2tog] 8 times. (32 sts rem)

Rnd 33: [K2, k2tog] 8 times. (24 sts rem)

Rnds 34-41: Knit.

Bind off all sts.

Eyelids (make 2)

With MC, CO 6.

Row 1 (WS): Purl.

Row 2 (RS): Sl1, kfb, k2, kfb, k1. (8 sts)

Row 3: Sl1, p7.

Row 4: Sl1, k1, BO next 4 sts, k1. (4 sts rem)

Row 5: Sl1, p1, CO 4 sts, p2. (8 sts)

Row 6: Sl1, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k1. (6 sts rem)

Row 7: Sl1, p5.

Row 8: Sl1, k2tog twice, k1. (4 sts rem)

BO all sts purlwise.

Front flipper (make 2)

With MC, CO 20 sts.

Rnd 1: Knit all sts, distribute over dpns and join to work in the rnd. (20 sts)

Rnd 2: Knit.

Rnd 3: K18, W&T, p16, W&T, *k to 2 sts before previously wrapped st, W&T, p to 2 sts before previously wrapped st, W&T, rep from * until there rem 6 sts bet wraps, then k to end of rnd.

Rnds 4-6: Knit.

Rnd 7: K8, kfb, k2, kfb, k8. (22 sts)

Rnds 8-18: Knit.

Rnd 19: K18, W&T, p14, W&T, *k to 2 sts before previously wrapped st, W&T, p to 2sts before previously wrapped st, W&T, rep from * until there rem 8 sts bet wraps, then k to end of rnd.

Rnds 20-22: Knit.

Rnd 23: [K1, k2tog, k5, k2tog, k1] 2 times. (18 sts rem)

Rnds 24-31: Knit.

Rnd 32: [K1, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k1] 2 times. (14 sts rem)

Rnds 33-34: Knit.

Rnd 35: [K1, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k1] 2 times. (10 sts rem)

Rnds 36-37: Knit.

Rnd 38: K2tog 5 times. (5 sts rem)

Pull yarn through rem sts and cynch tight to tie off.

Hind flipper (make 2)

With MC, CO 20 sts.

Rnd 1: Knit all sts, distribute over dpns and join to work in the rnd. (20 sts)

Rnds 2-3: Knit.

Rnd 4: K8, kfb, k2, kfb. K8. (22 sts)

Rnds 5-7: Knit.

Rnd 8: K9, kfb, k2, kfb, k9. (24 sts)

Rnds 9-15: Knit.

BO all sts.

Shell

With CC, CO 26.

Rnd 1: Knit all sts, distribute over dpns and join to work in the rnd. (26 sts)

Rnd 2: Knit.

Rnd 3: [K1, kfb, k9, kfb, k1] 2 times. (30 sts)

Rnd 4: Knit.

Rnd 5: [K1, kfb, k11, kfb, k1] 2 times. (34 sts)

Rnds 6-7: Knit.

Create holes for front flippers:

Row 1 (RS): K1, kfb, k13, kfb, k1, place all rem sts in the rnd on a st holder or spare needle. Turn work. (19 active sts)

Row 2: Sl1, p18.

Row 3: Sl1, kfb, k15, kfb, k1. (21 sts)

Row 4: Sl1, p20.

Row 5: Sl1, kfb, k17, kfb, k1. (23 sts)

Row 6: Sl1, p22.

Row 7: Sl1, kfb, k19, kfb, k1. (25 sts)

Row 8: Sl1, p24.

Row 9: Sl1, kfb, k21, kfb, k1. (27 sts)

Row 10: Sl1, p26.

Place these 27 sts on st holder and rep Rows 1-10 above on the held sts from Rnd 7, then rejoin and begin again to work in the rnd.

Rnd 8 (RS): [K1, kfb, k23, kfb, k1] 2 times. (58 sts)

Rnds 9-11: Knit

Rnd 12: [K1, kfb, k25, kfb, k1] 2 times. (62 sts)

Rnds 13-18: Knit.

Rnd 19: [K1, k2tog, k25, k2tog, k1] 2 times. (58 sts rem)

Rnds 20-21: Knit.

Rnd 22: [K1, k2tog, k23, k2tog, k1] 2 times. (54 sts rem)

Rnd 23: Knit.

Rnd 24: [K1, k2tog, k21, k2tog, k1] 2 times. (50 sts rem)

Rnd 25: Knit.

Rnd 26: [K1, k2tog, k19, k2tog, k1] 2 times. (46 sts rem)

Rnd 27: Knit.

Rnd 28: [K1, k2tog, k17, k2tog, k1] 2 times. (42 sts rem)

Rnd 29: [K1, k2tog, k15, k2tog, k1] 2 times. (38 sts rem)

Rnd 30: [K1, k2tog, k13, k2tog, k1] 2 times. (34 sts rem)

Rnd 31: [K1, k2tog, k11, k2tog, k1] 2 times. (30 sts rem)

Rnd 32: [K1, k2tog, k9, k2tog, k1] 2 times. (26 sts rem)

Rnd 33: [K1, k2tog, k7, k2tog, k1] 2 times. (22 sts rem)

Rnd 34: [K1, k2tog, k5, k2tog, k1] 2 times. (18 sts rem)

Rnd 35: [K1, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k1] 2 times. (14 sts rem)

Rnd 36: Knit.

Rnd 37: [K2tog, k3, k2tog] 2 times. (10 sts rem)

Cut yarn, pull through rem sts.

Finishing

Stuff head and with CC, embroider 2 vertical lines for nostrils.

Position eyelid over plastic eye, using sewing pins to hold in place if necessary. The opening in the middle of the eyelid should be slanted slightly down in the front. Use tapestry needle and length of MC to sew all the way around the outer edge of eyelid, fastening it to head. Be sure to pull it taut, adding extra stitches at the inner corners of the opening for the eye, if necessary.

Position BO edge of head into CO edge of shell. Using a tapestry needle and length of MC, sew the two pieces together. Stuff the shell with fiberfill.

Lightly stuff front flippers. Position CO edge of each front flipper into front flipper opening on shell. Using a tapestry needle and length of MC, sew the front flippers into position.

Lightly stuff the back flippers and sew each to the back edge of the shell with tapestry needle and length of MC.

The post Seymour the Sea Turtle Knit Toy appeared first on I Like Knitting.